We’ve wanted to visit Georgia for several years and finally planned this trip to the capitals of the Caucasus mountains. It’s exciting because we’ll see three new countries, but I am most interested in this region’s diverse culture and food. The sites at the crossroads of many cultures.
The Caucasus region spans Eastern Europe and Western Asia, between the Black Sea on the west and the Caspian Sea to the east, with Russia to the north and Iran and Turkey to the south. It is home to Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, and parts of Southern Russia. This area is linguistically and culturally diverse, comprising over 50 ethnic groups speaking multiple languages because it is the crossroads of these neighboring countries and the Silk Route.
I’m looking forward to this trip for several reasons. First, the region is fascinating as it is at the crossroads of many cultures and sits at the base of the mountains near the Caspian Sea. Azerbaijan is bordered by Russia to the north, Iran to the south, Armenia and Georgia to the west, and Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Tajikistan across the Caspian Sea to the east. The
These cities connection to the Silk Road to and from Constantinople to Persia, the Stans, and up into Russia were integral stopovers. I am curious about how trade is moving across the region. I recently read of a trade alliance referred to as the “Middle Corridor,” these countries, as well as Turkiye and Kazakhstan, coordinate significant transit deals to facilitate trade between the region, Europe, and Asia.
The Rich History
The region’s history is fascinating, between 1.8 million-year-old petroglyphs on rocks carved by the first humans found outside of Africa and a monastery carved into the cliffs that housed the Roman spear that pierced Jesus on the cross. Its location sits at the crossroads of many cultures.
The Food
I was especially looking forward to the regional influences on their food. I love trying different foods, especially various meats on a stick and local bread. I’m excited to try Georgian wine, Armenian coffee, and Azerbaijani tea. These may not be popular worldwide, but I’ve heard they are delicious.
As expected, the food was terrific. My biggest regret with an accelerated trip like this one was not having enough local meals. I heard a lot about Azerbaijani Plav, with over 200 variations of the rice dish, and that was at the top of my list to try. I also wanted to try the bread and bean dish below in Georgia called Lobiani, and we finally had kebabs in Armenia.
Silk Route Connection
All three capitals are part of the Silk Route, which runs from Greece to China. I have been fascinated with the Silk Road since I was a child. In my AP World History course, I learned about the “Caravanserai,” which were rest stops at key points along the route. They were places to eat, sleep, care for animals, and even find fellow traders. This one, Multani Caravanserai, was from the 14th century, and just across the road is Bukhara Caravanserai, from the 15th century.
Caring for Stray Dogs and Cats
The cities all have programs to spay and neuter strays. They are tagged so they know their vaccination history. While not necessarily well fed, they are cared for, and in Yerevan and Tbilisi, there is an active program to feed cats.
USAID Support
In all three countries, I saw several signs indicating that USAID had provided support to boost economic development via trade. This was at the UNESCO Geghard medieval monastery, where it helped to refurbish it to make it accessible and increase tourism and the local economy. The road to the monastery had many small shops and restaurants, adding much-needed economic support to the region.
Scenic Views
Boarded by the Black and Caspian seas, the region offers great water views, fertile valleys, and tall mountain ranges. I have always wanted to see Mt. Ararat and the valley where life began again after the biblical flood. Mount Ararat is a dormant volcano and the highest peak in Eastern Turkey, at 16,854 feet. Due to the snow storms, I thought clouds might hide the mountain, but we were presented with amazing views as we drove through the Armenian countryside.
Google Fi
Google Fi worked perfectly in all three countries, even during the 6-hour trek across the mountains from Georgia to Armenia.
Cross-Border Trade
We are always curious about how some countries generate revenue, so I started looking it up, and it is always interesting to see what moves between countries. Some things are apparent, like cars or produce the country is known for, but there are always outliers.
Azerbaijan—In 2024, U.S. exports to Azerbaijan were valued at $255.1 million, with automobiles ($134M) and gas turbines ($21.8M) being the two largest.
U.S. imports from Azerbaijan totaled $157.8 million in 2024, with aluminum plating ($16.7M) and refined petroleum ($9.95M)
Georgia—U.S. exports to Georgia were an estimated $1.9 billion in 2024, with automobiles worth $1.93 billion, followed by used clothing ($7.1M) and nuts ($6.89M). This was a surprise as Georgia is among the largest nut producers, especially hazelnuts and walnuts.
U.S. imports from Georgia totaled $165.4 million in 2024, with Iron and Steel Alloy ($101M), Wine ($8.09M), and Mineral Water ($2.03M)
Armenia – U.S. exports to Armenia were an estimated $549.9 in 2024, with vehicles worth ($352.9M), followed by pharmaceuticals ($31.9M) and machinery ($28.16M).
U.S. imports from Armenia totaled $54 million in 2024, with Semiconductors ($8.52M), Jewelry ($8.23M), and Alcohol (brandy) ($4.47M)
Border Crossings
It was painless to get from the US to Germany and Baku, other than the frantic attempt to check 100+ visas for Azerbaijan just as we were ready to board the two-hour late flight. Finally, a supervisor overrode the craziness in the system and got everyone on the plane. There are political issues between these countries, especially with Azerbaijan and Armenia, that I won’t get into. I had read there were issues with entries if you had a stamp from the other. Crossing from Georgia into Armenia, the agent asked several questions, specifically that we had been to Azerbaijan. It was good. It only showed a day before being stamped in and out, which he assumed was a quick transit. He wanted details about our hotel, contact information, and the tour company that arranged the visit to Armenia. He ultimately stamped the passports and told us to enjoy Armenia.
Accelerated Trip
This was an “accelerated trip” because we had a limited time window due to our work schedules. We wanted to visit these countries before any potential geopolitical events prevented us from visiting. We found a “quick tour,” the aptly named Capitals of Caucasus Tour, from the fantastic team at Advantour. My daughter said it was like the Amazing Race without the competition. It took us almost as long to get there and back as it did to be in the countries themselves.
The only reasonable option required a flight on United into Baku via Frankfurt, requiring an 8.5-hour layover. What should have been a nonstop flight from Frankfurt to Baku was changed to a quick stopover in Bucharest, Romania, to get fuel in the EU due to a potential weather delay in Baku due to a snowstorm. Listening to the terminology lecture from the Lufthansa gate agent to several disgruntled passengers as to this newly added stopover in Bucharest was interesting. A nonstop flight truly means there are NO STOPS between the two airports. However, a “direct,” which one may assume is the same thing in airport definitions, can have a “stop between” the destinations. This was not listed on the booking information, so it surprised everyone when they arrived at the gate to see the Bucharest stop.
From Baku, we flew to Tbilisi, and yes, this flight was also delayed due to more snow. We took a 6-hour van ride from Tbilisi to Yerevan, which also took longer than expected due to snow and ice. That was an adventure where we thought it might be better to sleep or focus on a video on our iPad than look out the window at the numerous near-head-on crashes from those passing or sliding due to black ice on the mountain passes. Departing Armenia, leaving for the airport at 2:30 am for a 5:10 flight, we flew to Frankfurt and back to Newark. This trip made me realize that I am not young any more and these hyper-accelerated trips may need to be adjusted.